Tuesday, November 11, 2014

Versatile Micropower Battery Protector

Protect your expensive batteries from discharge damage with this mini-sized electronic cutout switch. It uses virtually no power and can be built to suit a wide range of battery voltages.
Main Features
  • Disconnects load at preset battery voltage
  • Automatically reconnects load when battery recharged
  • Ultra-low power consumption (<20ma)
  • Miniature size
  • 10A maximum rating
  • Suitable for use with 4.8-12.5V batteries
  • Transient voltage protection (optional)
  • Suitable for use in...
    • Cars, boats & caravans
    • Security systems
    • Emergency lighting
    • Small solar installations
    • Camera battery packs
    • Many other low-power applications
    Picture of the project:
    versatile-micropower-battery-protector-circuit1


    Back in May 2002, we (Silicon Chip) presented the "Battery Guardian", a project designed specifically for protecting 12V car batteries from over-discharge. This unit has proven to be very popular and is still available from kit suppliers. This new design does not supersede the Battery Guardian – at least not when it comes to 12V car batteries. Instead, it’s a more flexible alternative that can be used with a wide range of battery voltages.

    Parts layout:



    In this new "Micropower Battery Protector", we’ve dispensed with the low-battery warning circuitry and the relatively cheap N-channel MOSFET used in the Battery Guardian in favour of a physically smaller module that steals much less battery power. It costs a little more but can switch lower voltages, allowing it to be used with 6V & 12V lead-acid batteries and 4-cell to 10-cell NiCd and NiMH battery packs.

    PCB layout:

    Most battery-powered equipment provides no mechanism for disconnecting the batteries when they’re exhausted. Even when the voltage drops too low for normal operation, battery drain usually continues until all available energy is expended. This is particularly true of equipment designed to be powered from alkaline or carbon cells but retro-fitted with rechargeables.

    Circuit diagram:


    Another example is emergency lighting and security equipment designed to be float-charged from the mains. In an extended blackout period, the batteries can be completely drained and may not recover when the mains power is finally restored.
    Source: Silicon Chip 27 July 2004

Simple 500W 12V to 220V Inverter


This is a 500W DC-to-AC inverter circuit diagram which produces an AC output at line frequency and voltage. 12VDC to 220V 50Hz inverter circuit will power 220V or 110V appliances from 12V car battery. The circuit is easy to make and is low cost. Use proper transformer. The output (in watts) is up to you by selecting different power rating transformer and power transistor rating. If you load electronic device which require 120V AC, then use transformer with 120V in output 

Sunday, November 9, 2014

4 Minute Shower Timer

Gone are the days when we can afford to luxuriate under a hot shower for hours on end. Well, maybe the showers weren’t quite that long but most people are used to taking showers in the tens of minutes. It’s easy to lose track of time in the shower. And it does feel nice.

That’s a luxury that’s no longer economically nor ecologically sustainable. First of all, we’re short of water. In most areas of Australia the powers-that-be keep telling us if we don’t be good boys and girls and cut our water usage then we are going to run out.

(Those same powers [read politicians] that keep blaming us wasteful consumers don’t mention that for the most part water shortages are their fault, because they haven’t invested the necessary dollars in water infrastructure while population has steadily increased for much of the last half century. But let’s not get into that argument. At least not right now . . .)

Second, we’re short of electric power. The power that goes to heat the water is also in very short supply. Load shedding (ie, blackouts!) is becoming more and more common as supply authorities attempt to cut peak loads. Those same powers-that-be keep telling us that if we don’t reduce our consumption of power, it’s going to get worse. (Those same powers [read politicians] that keep blaming us wasteful consumers, etc etc etc . . .)

Putting aside all the scare-mongering that’s going on in political circles (my spell checker wanted to change that to circuses, which would be perhaps more apt) it really does make sense for us, as consumers, to try to save both water and power – if only because that means less of our hard-earned dollars will end up in Government coffers.

One way to do both, of course, is to take shorter showers. How short?The 4-minute showerBelieve it or not, it is entirely possible to take a shower in four minutes – including, if you need to, washing your hair. In fact, without shampooing, a sub-three-minute shower is perfectly practical. People in the bush who don’t have the luxury of hot water have been "getting" that sort of shower for years: get in, get wet, get clean, get out!

Let’s face it – all you really need to do is get wet, soap up and rinse off. Get wet: 30 seconds. Soap up: 60 seconds. Rinse off: 60 seconds. That’s two and a half minutes. Add another 60 seconds to shampoo your hair and there’s your four minute shower – with 30 seconds left over for good measure.

OK, if you agree that four minutes is enough time, how do you go about convincing everyone in your family?

The ST4 Shower TimerThis rather ingenious (and patented) design is completely automatic, turning on about 20-30 seconds after it "hears" the first "sssshhh" of the shower – giving you enough time to adjust the water temperature – then beeping each minute up to the magic four minutes, at which time it sounds an alarm.

The alarm stops when you turn the shower off. But if you try to fool it by turning the shower off for a moment and then back on again, the alarm will start back up again. It resets after about a minute of no-shower-sound, ready for the next person to take their shower.

Part of the secret to this circuit is the use of the piezo buzzer: it is not only sounds the beep/alarm, as you would expect but it is also used as a "microphone" to pick up the splash sound.

There’s no on-off switch; it simply operates when it hears the shower turn on (listening for the distinctive splashing sounds of the water). There is an internal 3-position switch and preset pot which are adjusted to give the desired sensitivity – once set, you can forget it.

There are also pots to control clock frequency and tone of alarm – but these are set in the factory and should not need touching.

It’s operated by a 9V battery (alkaline preferred) which should last for at least 12 months. Current drain, when ready to operate but inactive, is comparable to that of a smoke detector – around 10-15mA.

The circuit, including the piezo, is housed on a single PC board which fits (along with the 9V battery) into a purpose-designed two-part case. When correctly assembled is quite waterproof. Mounted on the shower wall it allows shower sound to enter and beeps/alarm to escape without the circuit getting at all damp.

The case, as we said, is in two parts. These snap together to form a nice, tight seal around the PC board, with alignment of the two parts taken care of by pins and holes which mate. Each half of the case is fitted with a suction cap which allows the unit to mount to any smooth shower wall (or even a glass screen).

While the ST4 Shower Timer is available fully built and tested, we are more interested in it as a kit which you assemble yourself. Even here, most of the hard work – soldering the surface-mount components and ICs – is already done for you. In fact, as supplied, the PC board is built and tested, ready for you to put together Putting it togetherAssembly is as simple as removing the backing and the centre from the self-adhesive "donut" foam ring and sticking it, as central as possible, onto the piezo transducer. Then similarly stick the rectangular foam pad onto the back of the PC board (it keeps the battery snug while preventing it shorting to or across the board), then push the PC board into the bottom half of the case.
4-minute-shower-timer-circuits-diagrams1

The bottom half can be identified by the slots for the transducer. When the board is pushed fully home, the foam donut "gasket" provides a seal in a moulded housing inside the case, preventing any water entering the case – theoretically even if dunked.

We say theoretically because it is designed that way – but commonsense would suggest you don’t try to prove it. Because the transducer slots are at the bottom of the case, spray would have to be travelling upwards to enter – possible, of course.

But the foam donut stops this water going any further. While the transducer itself is not sealed, its internal construction means that it is also an effective water barrier, so with the sealing donut in place, spray cannot enter the case nor either around or through the transducer.

All this means that the shower timer is for all intents and purposes waterproof, especially from spray. Once the PC board has been pushed home, the battery can be connected and slid down into the case, alongside the (now insulated) back of the PC board. It should be a relatively snug fit.

In the unlikely event that the suction caps have come off the case halves in transit, simply slide them back into their respective slots on each end – the photos show where they go. Slide the two halves of the case together, ensuring that the channels which hold the suction caps line up exactly – the pins in one half won’t mate if they don’t. The two case halves should "snap" together and that completes construction.TestingIf you don’t want to get wet, you can use a small unmuted FM radio, off-station, to simulate the sound of a shower. (If your FM radio mutes automatically, or the mute cannot be turned off, this option won’t work. You’ll need to check it in situ – in the shower!) The FM radio will produce predominantly white noise, which is fairly close to the sound of a shower stream striking the bottom of the shower or bath.

Turn the radio on and the timer should give a chirping sound after 20-30 seconds (that’s the water temperature adjustment period). Then it should beep after each minute from there, with a series of beeps (7.5 seconds on, 7.5 seconds off) at the end of four minutes. Turn the radio off and the timer should reset.Mounting in the showerThe timer always mounts vertically, with the piezo transducer towards the bottom. The suction caps should stick very well to any ceramic tile, glass or other smooth surface – if necessary, give ’em a lick first! Best position for the timer is about 300-400mm from the floor but it should work reasonably well up to about waist height.

If you need to mount the unit higher than this, or if it doesn’t appear to be sensitive enough, open it up and slide the switch up one notch. Don’t mount any higher than necessary. In some very low volume showers, (eg some gravity feeds), you might need to adjust the sensitivity right up but this would normally be unlikely.

You should not need to adjust any of the pots – they are preset on factory assembly. Once mounted, give it another run, this time with the shower. It should perform in the same way as it did in your "white noise" test.

The only time you should need to remove the unit from the wall is to replace the battery and this could be up to a couple of years or so! Don’t pull on the timer to remove it, slide a knife or some other thin, flat object under the suction caps to break the seal

simple Mobile Phone Travel Charger

At this point is an ideal cellular phone charger using 1.5 Volt ballpoint cells to charge mobile phone while wandering. It can refill cell phone battery three before four period in the field of spaces everyplace AC power is not on hand.
A good number of the cell phone phone batteries are rated by the side of 3.6 in opposition to/500 mA. A single create torch cell can provide 1.5 volts and 1.5 Amps current. So if four pen cells are connected serially, it wish form a battery bunch with 6 volt and 1.5 Amps current. while power is practical to the circuit through S1, transistor T1 conducts and grassy LED light.
What time T1 conducts T2 furthermore conducts since its dishonorable becomes denial. Charging current flows from the satellite dish of T1. To reduce the charging voltage to 4.7 volts, Zener diode ZD is used. The output gives 20 mA current on behalf of stupid charging. If additional current is essential for fast charging, reduce the denomination of R4 to 47 ohms so with the aim of 80 mA current desire live on hand. Points A and B are used to bond the steed with the itinerant phone. assistance as it should be pins meant for this and connect with correct polarity.

Saturday, November 8, 2014

Luminescent Generator

When spun rapidly between the fingers, a bipolar stepper motor will generate around 10VAC. If this is stepped up with a small 240V to 6-0-6V transformer in reverse (with series connected secondaries), a small bipolar stepper motor is capable of powering a standard 5cm by 6cm luminescent sheet at full brightness. These are designed to be powered from 20V to 200VAC (typically 115VAC), producing 1.5 candelas of light - which will dimly light the average room, or adequately light a camp table. They are manufactured by Seikosha (RS Components Cat. 267-8726).

Circuit diagram:
Luminescent Generator Circuit Diagram

The transformer should be a small one (around 100mA or so), otherwise efficiency is compromised. The wires of the motors two phases are usually paired white & yellow and red & blue. Just one of these phases is employed in the circuit. If a small bipolar stepper motor from a discarded 3.5-inch disk drive is used, the Luminescent Generator may be built into a very small enclosure. To sustain rapid, smooth spinning of the motor, a geared handle may be added.

DC Motor Speed Controller Circuit Diagram

This circuit takes advantage of the voltage drop across bridge rectifier diodes to produce a 5-position variable voltage supply to a DC fan or other small DC motor. It is not as efficient as a switch-mode circuit but it has the virtues of simplicity and no switching hash. The four full-wave bridges are connected so that each has two pairs of series diodes in parallel, giving a voltage drop of about 1.4V, depending on the load current.

Circuit diagram:
DC Motor Speed Controller Circuit Diagram

The rotary switch should have "make before break" contacts which should be rated to take currents up to about an amp or so. For higher currents, higher rated bridge rectifiers and a suitably rugged rotary switch (or solenoids) will be required. If you want smaller voltage steps, you could use the commoned AC inputs on the bridge rectifiers to give intermediate steps on the speed switch.

Mains Voltage Monitor Circuit Diagram

Many electronics hobbyists will have experienced the following: you try to finish a project late at night, and the mains supply fails. Whether that is caused by the electricity board or your carelessness isn’t really important. In any case, at such times you may find yourself without a torch or with flat batteries. There is no need to panic, as this circuit provides an emergency light. When the mains fails, the mains voltage monitor turns on five super bright LEDs, which are fed from a 9 V battery (NiCd or NiMH) or 7 AA cells. A buzzer has also been included, which should wake you from your sleep when the mains fails.

You obviously wouldn’t want to oversleep because your clock radio had reset, would you? When the mains voltage is present, the battery is charged via relay Re1, diode D8 and resistor R10. D8 prevents the battery voltage from powering the relay, and makes sure that the relay switches off when the mains voltage disappears. R10 is chosen such that the charging current of the battery is only a few milliamps. This current is small enough to prevent over-charging the battery. D6 acts as a mains indicator. When the relay turns off, IC1 receives power from the battery. The JK flip-flops are set via R12 and C4.

Circuit diagram:
Mains
Mains Voltage Monitor Circuit Diagram

This causes T1 and T2 to conduct, which turns on D1-D5 and the buzzer. When the push button is pressed, a clock pulse appears on the CLK input of flip-flop IC1b. The output then toggles and the LEDs turn off. At the same time IC1a is reset, which silences the buzzer. If you press the button again, the LEDs will turn on since IC1b receives another clock pulse. The buzzer remains off because IC1a stays in its reset state. R11, R3 and C3 help to debounce the push button signal. In this way the circuit can also be used as a torch, especially if a separate mains adapter is used as the power supply.

As soon as the mains voltage is restored, the relay turns on, the LEDs turn off and the battery starts charging. The function of R13 is to discharge C4, preparing the circuit for the next mishap. If mains failures are a regular occurrence, we recommend that you connect pairs of LEDs in series. The series resistors should then have a value of 100 ?. This reduces the current consumption and therefore extends the battery life. This proves very useful when the battery hasn’t recharged fully after the last time. In any case, you should buy the brightest LEDs you can get hold of. If the LEDs you use have a maximum current of 20 mA, you should double the value of the series resistors! You could also consider using white LEDs.