Showing posts with label car. Show all posts
Showing posts with label car. Show all posts

Monday, November 17, 2014

MP3 Car Amplifier Schematic Circuits 150W

MP3MP3 Car Amplifier Schematic Circuits 150W

These accessories are low cost, aerial speed, bifold JFET ascribe operational amplifiers with an internally akin ascribe account voltage (BI-FET II technology). They crave low accumulation accepted yet advance a ample accretion bandage amplitude artefact and fast bulk rate. In addition, able-bodied akin aerial voltage JFET ascribe accessories accommodate actual low ascribe bent and account currents. The LF353 is pin accordant with the accepted LM1558 acceptance designers to anon advancement e the all-embracing achievement of absolute LM1558 and LM358 designs. These amplifiers may be acclimated in applications such as aerial acceleration integrators, fast D/A converters, sample and authority circuits and abounding added circuits acute low ascribe account voltage, low ascribe bent current, aerial ascribe impedance, aerial bulk amount and advanced bandwidth. The accessories additionally display low babble and account voltage drift. (National Semiconductor

Internally trimmed offset voltage: 10 mV
Low input bias current: 50pA
Low input noise voltage: 25 nV
Low input noise current: 0.01 pA
Wide gain bandwidth: 4 MHz
High slew rate: 13 V/us
Low supply current: 3.6 m
High input impedance: 1012.
Low total harmonic distortion : <>

Tuesday, November 4, 2014

Car Battery 12v Charger

The usual chargers of battery automotive, are simple and cheap appliances that charge continuously the battery, with a rythm of few amperes, for the time where the appliance is ON. If the holder do not close in time the charger, the battery will overcharge and her electrolytic faculty are lost with evaporation or likely exists destruction of her elements. The charger of circuit exceeds these faults. It checks electronic the situation of charge of battery and it has circuit of control with retroaction, that forces the battery charge with biggest rythm until charge completely. 

Car Battery 12v Charger Circuit diagram:
 
Charger

When charge completely, it turns on one RED led (LD2). The charger has been drawn in order to charge batteries of 12V, ONLY. What should watch it from what it manufactures the circuit, they are the cables that connect the transformer with the circuit and in the continuity the battery, should they are big cross-section, so that heat when it passes from in them the current of charge and also they do not cause fall of voltage at the way of current through them.
 
Adjustment:
 
After assembling of the circuit, adjust TR1 to null value, power-up and make the following adjustments :-
  1. Without connecting the battery check that the 2 LED?s are turned on.
  2. Connect a car battery to the circuit and check that LD2 is OFF and a current (normally 2A to 4A) is flowing to the battery.
  3. Adjust TR1 until LD2 turns ON and the charge current is cut.
  4. Adjust TR1 to null value and charge the battery using the hydrometer technique (if you do not have or do not know how to use a hydrometer, then use a good condition battery and charge).

Carefully adjust TR1 so that LD2 begins to turn ON and the charge current falls to a few hundred milliamps (mA). If TR1 is set correctly then in the next round of charging you will noticed LD2 begin to flicker as the battery is being charged. When battery is completely charged, LD2 turns ON completely.TR1 does not need further adjustment anymore. Q1 is connected in line with the battery and is fired by R3, R4 and LD2. The R2, C1, TR1 and D2 sense the voltage of the battery terminal and activate Q2 when the voltage of the battery terminal exceeds the value predetermined by TR1.

When an uncharged battery is connected, the terminal voltage is low. Under this circumstance, Q2 is turned OFF and Q1 is fired in each half cycle by R3, R4 and LD2. The Q1 functions as a simple rectifier and charges the battery. If the battery terminal voltage is increased above the level that had been fixed by TR1, then Q2 shifts the control of Q1 gate. This deactivates Q1 and cuts off the current supply to the battery and turns LD2 ON indicating that the charge has been completed. Q1 and bridge rectifier GR1 should be mounted on heatsinks to prevent overheating. M1 is a 5A DC ammeter to measure the charge current.

 




Sunday, November 2, 2014

CAR EXTERIOR LIGHTS ELECTRONIC CIRCUIT DIAGRAM

CAR EXTERIOR LIGHTS ELECTRONIC CIRCUIT DIAGRAM

It shows the connection and wiring between each parts and component of exterior lights system of the vehicle such as the fusible link, junction block, tail light relay, cruise control, stop light switch, relay box, column switch, rear combination light, front combination light, license light, hazard light switch, turn-signal and hazard flasher unit, park/neutral position switch, back-up light switch, combination meter, and many more.

Thursday, October 30, 2014

Car Audio Amplifier Instalation Guide

Amplifier and speakers wiring. The amplifier does not always come with wire connection. You need a kit amp wiring harness sold separately. It is important to adjust the harness to the vehicle you have, to the right frequency and sound. The red wires (positive) is thicker than black (ground). A 12 -, 10 – or 8-gauge wire or lower is better sound quality.

Car

Connecting the power cable and head unit. Disconnect the negative battery cable car, then the positive. Connect the red amplifier (positive) to the positive battery cable. Strip one end of the thread about half an inch and squeeze the cable connector U-Connect the positive terminal of the battery and tighten. Slide the other end through the firewall of your car, which is located towards the rear under the hood. Drag the interior and on the back of the torso. You may need to unscrew the bottom plate on each side and pull the seat back to move the thread. Black lead to an O-ring and screws for the metal of the cars to squeeze into the trunk.

Check if your head unit has suspended two AV, the ends of the women. If not, you have to buy one and have it installed. AV wire supplied with the kit must be long enough to reach from the amplifier in the trunk of the radio. Connect the ends of the red and white male to the female ends of the amplifier and the radio. Then connect the son of the subwoofer amplifier. Connect the negative terminal of the battery.

Turn the key to your car and listen to the radio at low volume. Not at full power crank. You get a distorted sound, or a speaker can blow the air. You will feel the vibration in the car audio system.

Monday, October 27, 2014

2 x 22W BTL Car Audio Amplifier DA1553CQ

This is a 22 Watt car stereo audio amplifier. The circuit is based by a single IC TDA1553 with a few peripheral components, this IC hope against hope code name your stereo car audio classification. The IC TDA1553CQ contains 2×22 W amplifiers with differential input stages and can exist used in favor of connection applications.. The expansion of apiece amplifier is fixed by the side of 26 dB. The device is primarily residential for car broadcasting applications.

Circuit Diagram 2 x 22W-BTL Car Audio Amplifier Using DA1553CQ

Circuit Diagram 2 x 22W-BTL Car Audio Amplifier Using TDA1553CQ 
  • The TDA1553CQ IC have got to be present fitted with adequately sized cook sinks.
  • unite a 10K POT happening string with the input because volume control if you need. Not publicized in circuit diagram.
  • employment 12V DC in favor of powering the circuit.


What time a diminutive-circuit to ground occurs, which forces a DC voltage across the loudspeaker of >= vs., a built-in protection circuit becomes full of life and limits the DC voltage across the loudspeaker to <= vs.. pin 12 detects the status of the protection circuit (e.g. meant for diagnostic purposes).

If slightly output is unfriendly-circuited to ground in the course of the side with mode, it becomes hopeless to switch the circuit to the mute otherwise operating condition. happening this event the supply current determination remain some degree of to a little milliamps.

Wednesday, September 24, 2014

Car Battery 12v Charger

The usual chargers of battery automotive, are simple and cheap appliances that charge continuously the battery, with a rythm of few amperes, for the time where the appliance is ON. If the holder do not close in time the charger, the battery will overcharge and her electrolytic faculty are lost with evaporation or likely exists destruction of her elements. The charger of circuit exceeds these faults. It checks electronic the situation of charge of battery and it has circuit of control with retroaction, that forces the battery charge with biggest rythm until charge completely.
Circuit diagram:
Car_baterry_charger Circuit Diagram
Car Battery 12v Charger Circuit Diaram
When charge completely, it turns on one RED led (LD2). The charger has been drawn in order to charge batteries of 12V, ONLY. What should watch it from what it manufactures the circuit, they are the cables that connect the transformer with the circuit and in the continuity the battery, should they are big cross-section, so that heat when it passes from in them the current of charge and also they do not cause fall of voltage at the way of current through them.
Adjustment
After assembling of the circuit, adjust TR1 to null value, power-up and make the following adjustments :-
  1. Without connecting the battery check that the 2 LED?s are turned on.
  2. Connect a car battery to the circuit and check that LD2 is OFF and a current (normally 2A to 4A) is flowing to the battery.
  3. Adjust TR1 until LD2 turns ON and the charge current is cut.
  4. Adjust TR1 to null value and charge the battery using the hydrometer technique (if you do not have or do not know how to use a hydrometer, then use a good condition battery and charge).

Carefully adjust TR1 so that LD2 begins to turn ON and the charge current falls to a few hundred milliamps (mA). If TR1 is set correctly then in the next round of charging you will noticed LD2 begin to flicker as the battery is being charged. When battery is completely charged, LD2 turns ON completely.TR1 does not need further adjustment anymore. Q1 is connected in line with the battery and is fired by R3, R4 and LD2. The R2, C1, TR1 and D2 sense the voltage of the battery terminal and activate Q2 when the voltage of the battery terminal exceeds the value predetermined by TR1.

When an uncharged battery is connected, the terminal voltage is low. Under this circumstance, Q2 is turned OFF and Q1 is fired in each half cycle by R3, R4 and LD2. The Q1 functions as a simple rectifier and charges the battery. If the battery terminal voltage is increased above the level that had been fixed by TR1, then Q2 shifts the control of Q1 gate. This deactivates Q1 and cuts off the current supply to the battery and turns LD2 ON indicating that the charge has been completed. Q1 and bridge rectifier GR1 should be mounted on heatsinks to prevent overheating. M1 is a 5A DC ammeter to measure the charge current.

Source :users.otenet.gr

A Car Battery Monitor

A close call on the road can really focus your mind on the importance of having a battery monitor in a car. I had been enjoying a pleasant week of travelling around the countryside at a leisurely pace and taking in the beautiful scenery each day. It wasnt until the final day, with the big rush to return home, that I had to drive at night.My home is deep in the country and on the road I was travelling the closest petrol station may be 80km away. I was travelling through an area that is full of open-cut coal mines and large heavily loaded semi-trailers constantly pound the roads, travelling at quite high speeds. It was around 8pm at night and everything was very dark no street lights or house lights anywhere.

Just as I was going up a hill, the lights began to dim and the engine coughed. A large semi-trailer loomed in the rear-vision mirror as I pushed the clutch in and tried to restart. My speed was falling rapidly and my lights were blacked out - I was like a sitting duck in the middle of the road, as the semi-trailer came rapidly bearing down on me. I just managed to pull the car off the road, as the semi-trailer came screaming past, missing me by inches! After calling for assistance from the NRMA, the problem was found to be a fault in the alternator, which was failing to charge the battery. The battery voltage had been falling under the heavy load of the lights and at the worst possible time, there was not sufficient power for the lights or the motor.

After the initial shock wore off, I put on my thinking cap to come up with a PIC-based solution to the problem. What was really needed was a display and a buzzer, to get my attention should the voltage fall outside a specified range. So my design criteria was set, a series of LEDs could indicate the voltage and a buzzer would also be used to warn of problems.
Main Features:
  • Visual indication of battery voltage
  • Audible warning when voltage becomes low
  • Screw terminals for easy connection
  • Simple and easy to build
Circuit details:

The circuit is based on PIC16F819 18-pin microcontroller which has an analog-to-digital (A/D) input to monitor the battery voltage and outputs capable of driving LEDs directly, to keep the component count down. There are seven LEDs in all, giving a good range of voltage indication. The topmost LED, LED1, comes on for voltages above 14V which will occur when the battery is fully charged. LED2 indicates for voltages between 13.5V and 14V while LED3 indicates between 13V and 13.5V. Normally, one of these LEDs will be on. LED4 covers 12.5V to 13V while LED5 covers 12V to 12.5V. LED6 covers from 11.5V to 12V while LED7 comes on for voltages below 11.5V. These two LEDs are backed up by the piezo chime which beeps for voltages between 11.5V and 12V and becomes more insistent for voltages below 11.5V.

That might seem fairly conservative. After all, most cars will start with no troubles, even though the battery voltage might be a touch below 12V, wont they? Well, no. Some modern cars will happily crank the motor at voltages below 11V but their engine management will not let the motor start unless the voltage is above 11V. So dont think that a modern car will always start reliably. This little battery monitor could easily prevent a very inconvenient failure to start! So lets describe the rest of the circuit. The incoming supply is connected via diode D1 which provides protection against reverse polarity while zener diode ZD1 provides protection from spike voltages.

A standard 7805 3-terminal regulator is then used to provide a stable 5V to the microcontroller. The battery voltage is sensed via a voltage divider using 33kΩ and 100kΩ resistors. This brings the voltage down to within the 0-5V range for the A/D input of the PIC16F819. Port B (RB0 to RB7) of the microcontroller is then used to drive the various LEDs, with current limiting provided via the 330Ω resistor network. RB7, pin 13, drives a switching transistor for the piezo buzzer.

Software:
For the software, the design follows the basic template for a PIC microcontroller. Port A and its ADC (analog-to-digital converter) function are set up while port B functions as the output for the LEDs and buzzer. Once the set-up is complete, a reading will be taken at port RA2, the input for the A/D convertor. This reading is then compared with a series of values to determine the range of the voltage. This is similar to a series of "if" statements in Basic language. If the voltage is found to be within a certain range, the relevant port B pin will be turned on. If the voltage is below 12V, the buzzer will be turned on for a brief period, to signal a low battery condition. As the voltage falls below 11.5V, the frequency of the beeps will increase, to signal increased urgency.

Building it:

All the parts are mounted on a small PC board measuring 46 x 46mm (available from Futurlec). The starting point should be the IC socket for the PIC16F819, as this is easiest to mount while the board is bare. The next item can be the PC terminal block. The resistors and capacitors can then follow. Make sure the electrolytics are inserted with correct polarity.

Make sure that you do not confuse the zener (ZD1) with the diode when you are installing them; the diode is the larger package of the two.
 
Even more important, dont get the 78L05 3-terminal regulator and the 2N3906 transistor mixed up; they come in identical packages. The 78L05 will be labelled as such while the 2N3906 will be labelled "3906". And make sure you insert them the correct way around. The buzzer must also be installed with the correct polarity. The 330Ω current limiting resistors are all in a 10-pin in-line package. There are four green LEDs, two yellow and one red. They need to be installed in line and with the correct orientation.

Testing:

Before you insert the PIC16F819 microcontroller, do a voltage check. Connect a 12V source and check for the presence of 5V between pins 14 & 5 OF IC1. If 5V is not present, check the polarity of regulator REG1 and the polarity of the diode D1. If these tests are OK, insert the IC and test the unit over a range of voltage between 9V and 15V. Make sure that all LEDs come on in sequence and the piezo buzzer beeps for voltages below 12V. 

Now it is matter of installing the unit in your car. It is preferable to install the unit in a visible position for the driver. However, it should not obscure any other instruments. The unit should be connected to the cars 12V supply after the ignition switch. This will turn the unit off with the other instruments and prevent battery drain while the motor is not running.



Author :Alan Bonnard Copyright : Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd