Easy Build a Cat and Dog Repeller

Nowadays, just about every house has an outside lamp with a motion sensor. Such a device eliminates the need to feel your way to the front door, and it apparently also scares away intruders. The only problem is that free-running dogs and cats in the neighborhood have little regard for such lamps and continue to deposit their excrement in the garden, once they have found a habitual location there for this purpose. This gave rise to the idea of connecting a sort of siren in parallel with the outside lamp to clearly advise dogs and cats that they are not welcome.

Naturally, it would be nice to avoid startling the entire neighborhood with this alarm signal. Here we can take advantage of the fact that dogs and cats have a significantly better sense of hearing than people. Not only are their ears more sensitive, they can also perceive significantly higher frequencies. With people, the upper limit is around 18 kHz, but dogs and cats can hear frequencies in excess of 20 kHz. We can take advantage of this by building a siren that emits a frequency just above 20 kHz.

Cat and Dog Repeller Circuit diagram :

 

This will scare off dogs and cats, but people will simply not hear it. All we need for this is an oscillator with an amplifier stage and a tweeter that can reproduce such high frequencies, such as a piezoelectric tweeter. The schematic diagram shows how easily this can be implemented. The power supply for the entire circuit is formed by the components up to and including C2. The 230-V leads are connected in parallel with the motion-sensor lamp. C1 and R1 provide capacitive coupling to reduce the 230 V to an acceptable voltage. 

A DC voltage of approximately 9.1 V is generated from this voltage using a bridge rectifier and D1, filtered and buffered by C2. The oscillator is built around R3, C3 and IC1a.The frequency of this oscillator is rather dependent on the specific characteristics of IC1, so the values shown here should be regarded as guidelines. If the oscillator frequency is too high, it can be reduced by increasing the value of R3 and/or C3.

If the frequency is too low (which means that the siren tone it is audible), the value of R3 and/or C3 should be increased. The square-wave signal from the oscillator is applied to the input of an H bridge composed of several Schmitt triggers in combination with the final output stages (T1–T4). This approach causes the peak-to-peak value of the square wave signal to be twice the supply voltage. As a result, a respectable 18 V is obtained across the piezoelectric tweeter, which is sufficient to produce a quite loud whistle tone. When building the circuit, you should bear in mind that it is directly powered from 230 V and not electrically isolated from the mains network.

It is thus necessary to avoid contact with all of the components when the circuit is in use. In practice, this means that the circuit must be fitted into a well-insulated, waterproof box. If you want to test the circuit, it is a good idea to first discharge C1 using a resistor, since it can hold a dangerous charge. You must also ensure that components F1, C1, R1 and B1 all have a mutual insulation separation of at least 6 mm!

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How to build Power Flip Flop Using A Triac

Modern electronics is indispensable for every large model railroad system, and it provides a solution to almost every problem. Although ready-made products are exorbitantly expensive, clever electronics hobbyists try to use a minimum number of components to achieve optimum results together with low costs. This approach can be demonstrated using the rather unusual semiconductor power flip-flop described here. A flip-flop is a toggling circuit with two stable switching states (bistable multivibrator). It maintains its output state even in the absence of an input pulse.

Flip-flops can easily be implemented using triacs if no DC voltage is available. Triacs are also so inexpensive that they are often used by model railway builders as semiconductor power switches. The decisive advantage of triacs is that they are bi-directional, which means they can be triggered during both the positive and the negative half-cycle by applying an AC voltage to the gate electrode (G). The polarity of the trigger voltage is thus irrelevant. Triggering with a DC current is also possible. Figure 1 shows the circuit diagram of such a power flop-flop. A permanent magnet is fitted to the model train, and when it travels from left to right, the magnet switches the flip-flop on and off via reed switches S1 and S2.

Circuit diagram:

In order for this to work in both directions of travel, another pair of reed switches (S3 and S4) is connected in parallel with S1 and S2. Briefly closing S1 or S3 triggers the triac. The RC network C1/R2, which acts as a phase shifter, maintains the trigger current. The current through R2, C1 and the gate electrode (G) reaches its maximum value when the voltage across the load passes through zero. This causes the triac to be triggered anew for each half-cycle, even though no pulse is present at the gate. It remains triggered until S2 or S4 is closed, which causes it to return to the blocking state.The load can be incandescent lamps in the station area (platform lighting) or a

solenoid-operated device, such as a crossing gate. The LED connected across the output (with a rectifier diode) indicates the state of the flip-flop. The circuit shown here is designed for use in a model railway system, but there is no reason why it could not be used for other applications. The reed switches can also be replaced by normal pushbutton switches. For the commonly used TIC206D triac, which has a maximum current rating of 4 A, no heat sink is necessary in this application unless a load current exceeding 1 A must be supplied continuously or for an extended period of time. If the switch-on or switch-off pulse proves to be inadequate, the value of electrolytic capacitor C1 must be increased slightly.

Author: R. Edlinger - Copyright: Elektor July-August 2004

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How to build Personal alarm

Small, portable, anti-bag-snatching unit Also suitable for doors and windows control

Circuit diagram

Parts:

• R1 330K 1/4W Resistor
• R2 100R 1/4W Resistor
• C1 10nF 63V Polyester or Ceramic Capacitor
• C2 100µF 25V Electrolytic Capacitor
• Q1 BC547 45V 100mA NPN Transistor
• Q2 BC327 45V 800mA PNP Transistor
• SW1 Reed Switch and small magnet (See Notes)
• SPKR 8 Ohm Loudspeaker (See Notes)
• B1 3V Battery (two A or AA cells wired in series etc.)

Device purpose:

This circuit, enclosed in a small plastic box, can be placed into a bag or handbag. A small magnet is placed close to the reed switch and connected to the hand or the clothes of the person carrying the bag by means of a tiny cord. If the bag is snatched abruptly, the magnet looses its contact with the reed switch, SW1 opens, the circuit starts oscillating and the loudspeaker emits a loud alarm sound. The device can be reverse connected, i.e. the box can be placed in a pocket and the cord connected to the bag. This device can be very useful in signalling the opening of a door or window: place the box on the frame and the magnet on the movable part in a way that magnet and reed switch are very close when the door or window is closed.

Circuit operation:

A complementary transistor-pair is wired as a high efficiency oscillator, directly driving a small loudspeaker. Low part-count and 3V battery supply enable a very compact construction.

Notes:

• The loudspeaker can be any type, its dimensions are limited only by the box that will contain it.
• An on-off switch is unnecessary because the stand-by current drawing is less than 20µA.
• Current consumption when the alarm is sounding is about 100mA.
• If the circuit is used as anti-bag-snatching, SW1 can be replaced by a 3.5mm mono Jack socket and the magnet by a 3.5mm. mono Jack plug with its internal leads shorted. The Jack plug will be connected with the tiny cord etc.
• Do not supply this circuit with voltages exceeding 4.5V: it will not work and Q2 could be damaged. In any case a 3V supply is the best compromise.

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Build a Smart battery charger

This is a smart battery charger can protect your vehicles battery from failing and will prolong its life – theyre fully automatic so you can connect and forget.

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Build a Smart battery charger

This is a smart battery charger can protect your vehicles battery from failing and will prolong its life – theyre fully automatic so you can connect and forget.

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Build a Blocking Circuit with Alarm for Bicycle

Here is an interesting circuit, it is used to make a kind of lock or locks for bicycles, it allows owners to implement a bicycle lock and electronic alarm with a low cost. The operation of the electronic lock is simple, it has a circuit that uses a tone generator IC UM3561, this IC generates a sound when your bike has the protection wire that surrounds the wheel broken.

 Blocking Circuit with Alarm for Bicycle Circuit Diagram

Click here to download complete project

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Build 16 Stage Bi Directional LED Sequencer

The bi-directional sequencer uses a 4 bit binary up/down counter (CD4516) and two "1 of 8 line decoders" (74HC138 or 74HCT138) to generate the popular "Night Rider" display. A Schmitt Trigger oscillator provides the clock signal for the counter and the rate can be adjusted with the 500K pot. Two additional Schmitt Trigger inverters are used as a SET/RESET latch to control the counting direction (up or down). Be sure to use the 74HC14 and not the 74HCT14, the 74HCT14 may not work due to the low TTL input trigger level. When the highest count is reached (1111) the low output at pin 7 sets the latch so that the UP/DOWN input to the counter goes low and causes the counter to begin decrementing.

 When the lowest count is reached (0000) the latch is reset (high) so that the counter will begin incrementing on the next rising clock edge. The three lowest counter bits (Q0, Q1, Q2) are connected to both decoders in parallel and the highest bit Q3 is used to select the appropriate decoder. The circuit can be used to drive 12 volt/25 watt lamps with the addition of two transistors per lamp as shown below in the section below titled "Interfacing 5 volt CMOS to 12 volt loads"

Circuit diagram

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How to Build 1 2 30V 1 5A Variable Regulated Power supply Circuit

How to Build 1.2-30V/1.5A Variable Regulated Power supply, This is simple 1.2-30V/1.5A variable regulated power supply circuit diagram The 110V-AC coming from the powercord is fed to the transformer TR1 via the on-off switch and the 500mA fuse. The 30vac output (approximately) from the transformer is presented to the BR1, the bridge-rectifier, and here rectified from AC (Alternating Current) to DC (Direct Current). If you dont want to spend the money for a Bridge Rectifier, you can easily use four general purpose 1N4004 diodes. The pulsating DC output is filtered via the 2200µF capacitor (to make it more manageable for the regulator) and fed to IN-put of the adjustable LM317 regulator (IC1). The output of this regulator is your adjustable voltage of 1.2 to 30volts varied via the Adj pin and the 5K potmeter P1. The large value of C1 makes for a good, low ripple output voltage.

 1.2-30V/1.5A Variable Regulated Power supply Circuit Diagram

Why exactly 1.2V and not 0-volt? Very basic, the job of the regulator is two-fold; first, it compares the output voltage to an internal reference and controls the output voltage so that it remains constant, and second, it provides a method for adjusting the output voltage to the level you want by using a potentriometer. Internally the regulator uses a zener diode to provide a fixed reference voltage of 1.2 volt across the external resistor R2. (This resistor is usually around 240 ohms, but 220 ohms will work fine without any problems). Because of this the voltage at the output can never decrease below 1.2 volts, but as the potentiometer (P1) increases in resistance the voltage accross it, due to current from the regulator plus current from R2, its voltage increases. This increases the output voltage.

D1 is a general purpose 1N4001 diode, used as a feedback blocker. It steers any current that might be coming from the device under power around the regulator to prevent the regulator from being damaged. Such reverse currents usually occur when devices are powered down.

The ON Led will be lit via the 18K resistor R1. The current through the led will be between 12 - 20mA @ 2V depending on the type and color Led you are using. C2 is a 0.1µF (100nF) decoupler capacitor to filter out the transient noise which can be induced into the supply by stray magnetic fields. Under normal conditions this capacitor is only required if the regulator is far away from the filter cap, but I added it anyway. C3 improves transient response. This means that while the regulator may perform perfectly at DC and at low frequencies, (regulating the voltage regardless of the load current), at higher frequencies it may be less effective. Adding this 1 µF capacitor should improve the response at those frequencies.

R3 and the trimmer pot (P2) alows you to zero your meter to a set voltage. The meter is a 30Volt type with an internal resistance of 85 ohms. I you have or obtained a meter with a different Ri (internal resistance) you will have to adjust R3 to keep the current of meter to 1mA. Just another note in regards this meter, use the reading as a guideline. The reading may or may not be off by about 0.75volts at full scale, meaning if your meter indicates 30 volts it may be in reality almost 31 volts or 29 volts. If you need a more precies voltage, then use your multimeter.


Construction:
Because of the few components you can use a small case but use whatever you have available. I used a power cord from a computer and cut the computer end off. All computer power cords are three-prong. The ground wire, which is connected to the middle pin of the power plug is connected to the chassis. The color of the ground-wire is either green or green/yellow. It is there for your protection if the 110vac accidentally comes in contact with the supply housing (case). BE CAREFUL always to disconnect the powerplug when you working inside the chassis. If you choose to use an in-line, or clip-type fuseholder be sure to isolate it with heat shrink or something to minimize accidental touching.

I use perf-board (or Vero board) as a circuit board. This stuff is widely available and comes relatively cheap. It is either made of some sort of fiber material or Phenolic or Bakelite pcb. They all work great. Some Phenolic boards come with copper tracks already on them which will make soldering the project together easier.

I mounted the LM317(T) regulator on a heatsink. If you use a metal/aluminum case you can mount it right to the metal case, insulated with the mica insulator and the nylon washer around the mounting screw. Note that the metal tab of the LM317 is connected internally to the Output pin. So it has to be insulated when mounting directly to the case. Use heat sink compound (comes in transparent or white color) on the metal tab and mica insulator to maximize proper heat transfer between LM317 and case/ or heatsink.

Drill the holes for the banana jacks, on/off switch, and LED and make the cut-out for the meter. It is best to mount everything in such a way that you are able to trouble-shoot your circuit board with ease if needed. One more note about the on-off switch S1, this switch has 110VAC power to it. After soldering, insulate the bare spots with a bit of silicon gel. Works great and prevents electrical shock through accidental touching.

If all is well, and you are finished assembling and soldering everything, check all connections. Check capacitors C1 & C3 for proper polarity (especially for C1, polarity reversal may cause explosion). Hookup a multimeter to the power supply output jacks. Set the meter for DC volts. Switch on S1 (led will light, no smoke or sparks?) and watch the meter movement. Adjust the potentiometer until it reads on your multimeter 15Volts. Adjust trimpot P2 until the meter also reads 15volts. When done, note any discrepancies between your multimeter and the power supply meter at full scale (max output). Maybe there is none, maybe there is a little, but you will be aware of it. Good luck and have fun building!

Parts List

BR1 = Bridge Rectifier, 100V - 3A       C1 = 2200 µF, 63V
IC1 = LM317, adjustable regulator       C2 = 0.1 µF
  V = Meter, 30V, Ri = 85 ohm           C3 = 1µF, 40V
TR1 = Transformer, 25V, 2A            Plug = 3-wire plug & cord
 R1 = 18K, 5%                           S1 = On-Off toggle switch
 R2 = 220 ohm, 5%                       D1 = 1N4001
 R3 = 27K, 5%                         Fuse = 110V, 500mA, slow-blow
 P1 = 5K, potentiometer               FuseHolder, wire, solder, case, knob for P1
 P2 = 10K, 10-turn trim-pot           Red & Black Banana Jacks

Notes:  

This is a simple, but low-ripple powersupply, and an excellent project if youre starting out in electronics. It will suit your needs for most of your bench testing and prototype applications. The output is adjustable from 1.2 volts to about 30 volts. Maximum current is about 1.5 amps which is also sufficient for most of your tinkering. It is relatively easy to build and can be pretty cheap if you have some or all the required parts. A printed circuit board is not included and Im not planning on adding one since the whole thing can easily be build on perferated or vero board. Or buy one of Radio Shack/Tandys experimentors boards (#276-150). Suit yourself. The meter and the transformer are the money suckers, but if you can scrounge them up from somewhere it will reduce the cost significantly. BR1 is a full-wave bridge rectifier. The two ~ denotes AC and are connected to the 25vac output coming from the transformer. IC1 is a 3-pin, TO-220 model. Be sure to put a cooling rib on IC1, at its max 1.5 A current it quickly becomes very hot..

All the parts can be obtained from your local Radio Shack or Tandy store. The physical size of the power supply case depends largely on the size of the meter & transformer. But almost anything will do. Go wild.

Sourced By  Tony  van roon

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Build a Toggle Touch Switch Using Two Inverter Gates

We  can make a simple touch switch using only two inverter gates, two resistors, and two capacitors. The schematic diagram of the circuit is shown in the figure below. At power up, the output (of U1A) will be high, and the inverting output will be low because U1A gate will be triggered to ground level by C2. After triggered, the low level of U1A input is maintained by U1B output via R2.

If we touch the pad at this condition, where the output is high, then the U1A input will go high because we “short” the voltage of C1 to the input pin, and the low level previously caused by low level of U1B output voltage connected via R2 can’t be maintained because our skin resistance is much lower than 10M.

After U1A input goes high then U1A output will go low, and now U1B will go high to maintain high voltage level of U1A via R2, so we can release our finger without loosing the last state. Touching the pad again after we release our previous touching will toggle the output as the condition is reversed.

After we touch the pad, we have to release before 1 second (R2C2 time constant) elapsed. If we touch the pad longer than R2C2 time constant then  the output will oscillate (about 1 Hz).

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Build an Insect Repellent Circuit Diagram

This Insect Repellent Circuit Diagram produces a high frequency sound coming to ultrasound and adjust P1 serves to calibrate the ideal sound to scare away certain types of insects. It is based on a stable multivibrator in which the frequency is made ​​by the capacitors C1 and C2, which can be ceramic disc or plate, the resistors R2 and R3 and potentiometer P1.

The crystal is a type of transducer is piezoelectric, the current consumption of only approximately 7 mA ensures a good autonomy if the power comes from a 9 volt battery.

 Insect Repellent Circuit Diagram

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How Build a Solar Charger use IC LM317

 At this point is a Solar Charger Circuit to is used to charge information Acid otherwise Ni-album batteries using the solar energy power. The circuit harvests solar energy to charge a 6 volt 4.5 Ah rechargeable battery in favor of various applications. The stallion has Voltage and Current supervision and terminated voltage restrict sour facilities.

Circuit uses a 12 volt solar panel and a changeable voltage supervisor IC LM 317. The solar panel consists of solar cells each one rated on 1.2 volts. 12 volt DC is presented from the panel to charge the battery. Charging current passes through D1 to the voltage watchdog IC LM 317. By adjusting its Adjust pin, output voltage and current can subsist regulated.

VR is placed amid the adjust pin and ground to provide an output voltage of 9 volts to the battery. Resistor R3 confine the charging current and diode D2 prevents discharge of current from the battery. Transistor T1 and Zener diode ZD conduct yourself having the status of a stop rotten switch at what time the battery is ample. Normally T1 is rancid and battery gets charging current.

After the terminal voltage of the battery rises over 6.8 volts, Zener conducts and provides station current to T1. It followed by turns on education the output of LM 317 to prevent charging. If you want to specific voltage / current output , you can replacing ZD on the circuit above.

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